The king of French Champagne and wine

Michael Fuerstein, owner and founder of Selection Pas Mal, would have loved me even more if I were a retail wine shop owner.

If I were, my 2,000-square foot wine shop would only contain the assortment of Champagne and wines that Mr. Fuerstein imports from France into this country.

In his exceptional portfolio at Selection Pas Mal, Michael imports 48 types of Champagne and 88 various French wines, focusing on Burgundies.

All of Michael’s wines are made by “small producers.” Michael is his own competition, as he is the only one in America to carry the wines of the small winemakers he represents.

From my many years in the industry, I have not run across a French portfolio that is so extensive and interesting as what Michael Fuerstein offers the retailer.

Michael is a one-man show and is quite a mystery (see attached photo) in the industry. When you receive an invitation to his yearly tasting, you drop everything and plan for that special day. His portfolio tasting is like a wedding.

You show up with anticipation, hoping that each bottle will exceed your expectations. Add an oyster or two to the flute of champagne you are sampling and those expectations are easily met.

Michael quotes Napoleon Bonaparte with a smile: “In victory you deserve champagne. In defeat, you need it.” And he is right.

I could write 5,000 words of accolades about Michael Fuerstein and his portfolio, but, that would bore the reader. Instead, I will highlight Pas Mal’s portfolio, so, you can purchase his wines and understand why I am so enamored by his selections.

Of note in Michael’s Champagne selections are bottles made from the following selection of producers: Blanc de Blanc or Rose de Saignee from Champagne Jose Dhondt; Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru NV or Grand Cru 2006 from Champagne Demiere-Ansiot; Blanc de Blanc ‘Reserve’ Grand Cru NV and Grand Cru 2006 from Herve Dubois; all of Vazart-Coquart Champagnes; Champagne Marcel Moineaux’s Grand Cru 2004; Champagne Bernard Girardin’s Brut ‘Cuvee BG’ NV and Brut vintage 2004; all selections by Champagne Laherte Freres; Champagne Gerard Loriot Brut Tradition NV; all selections bt Champagne Baron D’ Auvergne; all selections by Champagne Hubert Paulet and Champagne Thierry Massin’s delightful Selection Brut NV and Millesime Brut 2002.

I believe there is not a better selection of Champagne varieties than the list just mentioned.

If you prefer wine and realize the best wines are French, then the following recommendations will certainly change your life. Instead of listing my favorites one-by-one, I will list the value priced wines that can fit into everyone’s budget.

I will start with the white wines: Domaine Luquet Cremant de Bourgogne; Domaine Agnes & Didier Dauvissat Petit Chablis 2010; Domaine de Clos Salomon Montagny le Clou 2009; Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey Bourgogne Blanc 2009, Haute Cotes de Beaune Champ Perdrix 2010, Rully 2008; Domaine Labet Cremant Rose, Cuvee Fleurs 2009, Chardonnay ‘Les Varrons 2007 and Fleur de Savignin 2009.

The value red wines include: Domaine Dominique Mugneret Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2010; Domaine Digioia-Royer Bourgogne Haute Cotes de Nuits 2009; Domaine Jean-Pierre Colinot Passetoutgain 2009, irancy Palotte 2007 and Irancy Tres Vielles Vignes 2006; Domaine Sylvain Patalle Passetoutgain 2009, Bourgogne Rouge 2007, Marsannay 2008 and Marsannay Clos du Roy 2007 and Domaine David Moreau Cotes de Beaune Villages 2009 and 2010 and Santenay Cuvee S.

In a future story I will focus in on Selection Pas Mal’s outstanding white and red burgundies.

Edith Piaf is famous for her song “J’ M’en Fous Pas Mal,” and Michael Fuestein lives the lyrics everyday.

Posted by Phillip Kampe on September 13, 2012. Filed under Columns,Food,Opinion,Wine and Beyond. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry